Saturday, April 3, 2010

Oh, The Irony

When I left the apartment this morning I turned right, instead of yesterday's left.  Exactly 49 steps from my door sits a small, but mightily stocked, grocery store -- larger and with far more goodies than the one I walked 3-1/2 hours to find yesterday.   Even better, the street I searched for in vain lies only a half a block beyond the store... Voila! 


Here are the first few pictures, taken today.

The first is Boulevard Saint-Germain -- my favorite street in all of Paris (not that I've seen ALL of Paris, but it is the one area that pops up most in my Paris fantasies.)
 

 It's classy, beautiful (even on a rainy day without leaves on the trees) and packed with interesting shops and restaurants.  It's not as elegant or snooty as the Champs-Elysees, not as touristy as parts of the Latin Quarter, yet it's lively and bustling.





On a corner, behind an iron garden railing, I found Saint Nicolas du Chardonnet church, which belongs to the Society of St. Pius X, which rigorously opposes the reforms of the Vatican II Council.  I stopped in and stepped back in time about 50 years -- signs posted requested women to cover their hair, the chant for the Tenebrae service was all in Latin, and (old) people had their noses buried in their missals... just as before Vat.II.  The building itself, while large and beautiful, isn't built in the Gothic style that rings my bells... I discreetly departed, very glad for the changes of the Council. 
(I didn't take this picture -- note the absence of rain.)



A few more blocks brought me to a street market -- right in front of the bakery that so tempted me yesterday.  I had completed that circle and only had to walk about a half-mile today to do it.  In fact, at one point in yesterday's adventure I was within a block of my place without the sense to know it.


The market was artistic, very expensive, and filled with a rich variety of jewelry, clothing, flowers, fruits and veggies -- some of which I didn't recognize.  Have you seen a tomato shaped like a pumpkin and about one-third the size?  I didn't buy it -- it was too scary. 

  I did try to buy some strawberries, but the harried stall owner had little patience with my halting, pitiful French and pretty much dismissed me with, "Oh, American.  Hmmph."  I'm not sure I had enough money in my bag, in the bank or on my two credit cards to pay for his strawberries, anyway.
Hmmph back, Jacques!

So -- I hit the bakery again and brought home Easter breakfast, lunch and dinner.  That isn't chicken in the photo -- it's bread.  It's ALL BREAD.  One is an orange brioche, two are croissants, and the third resembles sourdough. The quote "man does not live by bread alone" does not apply to France.


The fruit came from the little store 49 steps from my apartment.  They were not too uppity to sell me trois oranges et un pamplemousse  (grapefruit). 




And here are the entrance to my Parisian paradise, and my very own front door.  Can you see the puddles?  It's still raining.....